For June 2010
Location: Western Montana
Traveler: Jena Gardner
Is it possible to go off the beaten path in a place that many consider to be off the beaten path? Yes! As a Montana native, I know the ins and outs of my home state and love to share my favorite picks with friends. Start in Bozeman, home to Montana State University and once a rough cowtown, which has developed into a quaint Western village complete with charming shops, cafés and galleries. Its delightful streets are ideal for an afternoon stroll.
And while many visit Bozeman and then drive down through the Gallatin Valley to Yellowstone National Park, there are several stunning valleys and towns around the city that are worthy of exploration. Head due east of Bozeman and you’ll happen upon the authentic cowtown of Livingston, once the home of rough and tumble frontierswoman Calamity Jane, now a burgeoning artist community with 114 galleries. From Livingston, travel south through Paradise Valley toward the north entrance to Yellowstone at Mammoth Springs, one of the most visited parts of the park. I like to stop at Chico Hot Springs, a favorite hidden gem known by locals, where I once spotted Dennis Quaid playing chess with his son at the resort.
Another special drive is through the Boulder Valley and the little town of Big Timber, due east of Livingston. Most people don’t venture into this almost unknown valley, since it dead ends, but Robert Redford discovered its stunning beauty and filmed The Horse Whisperer there. At the end of the road is a breathtaking waterfall and fascinating rock formation. Another special place is the Pryor Mountains Wild Horse Range, south of Billings near Red Lodge. There, elusive wild mustangs roam free and it is a rare and truly special experience to see them out in the wilds.
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I think the quaintest town in the state of Montana is Bigfork, located on magnificent Flathead Lake in the northern part of the state. This rustically elegant outpost reminds me of Jackson Hole 30 years ago—it’s big on charm and not touristy. It’s a haven for artists and creative types and boasts a terrific summer playhouse. One of the most unspoiled regions of Montana is the Big Hole Valley. Travel along Route 43 and be sure to take your time as most people speed through this wide-open region. Generally known as the spot where Custer made his last stand, it truly represents “big sky” country at its best. By day, this wide valley is framed by an expansive clear-blue sky and by night it’s a star-studded wonder; you’ll never see more twinkling stars anywhere. And you’ll view wildlife galore—bear, antelope and elk. In fact, along this route I spied a small herd of eight moose at a watering hole, truly a rare sighting. Everyone wants to visit Montana in July and August, yet locals know the best time of year is in spring, between April and June (don’t worry…it’s not as cold as you would think). That’s when the wild flowers are in full bloom and you’re likely to see baby deer, elk, antelope, moose and even bear cubs. The optimum wildlife viewing is at dawn and dusk and you might even spot a migratory pair of bald eagles soaring overhead. Now that’s a majestic sight!
At a Glance |
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